Please find below The Thomas Jacks Limited, interactive 2018 Gerber Brochure - Edition 2.1.
WARRANTY & AFTERCARE ISSUES & QUESTIONS
Gerber’s 25 Year Warranty guarantees to the consumer that this product will be free of defects, in material and workmanship for the designated warranty timeframe. This warranty Does Not Cover damage due to rust, accident, loss, improper use, abuse, negligence, or modification of or to any part of the product. Normal wear and tear is not covered under the warranty.
If the product failed while being used as it was intended to be used, we will service under the warranty. At Gerber's option, defective product will be repaired, replaced, or substituted with a product of equal value.
Gerber products use a 100% high-grade stainless steel. Stainless steel is not completely resistant to rust, but is rather more corrosion resistant to rust. Corrosion can occur in the absence of proper maintenance.
Your Gerber product should be cleaned, dried, and re-oiled periodically to inhibit rust and corrosion; this is especially true in a damp or marine environment. If your Gerber product comes in contact with any substance that you are uncertain about, it is always a good idea to wash your blade off with tap water, dry it, and apply a light coat of oil.
If your Gerber product comes into contact with saltwater you must flush it with tap water immediately after use and coat it with a good quality lightweight oil. Salt water is extremely corrosive and will attack and destroy any type of steel.
After cleaning, re-oil your Gerber product with a good gun oil or 3-in-1 oil. Buff stained areas with a polishing cloth or a non-metallic scouring pad.
For more information on product maintenance please see the Product Maintenance section above or contact us for further advice.
A black Teflon or black oxide coating is applied to some knife blades for ornamental reasons. Continued rubbing on a sheath or pocket will cause the coating to wear through over time and that is considered normal wear and tear. The black Teflon or black oxide coating can be scratched off if the blade comes in contact with a hard metal objects which would not be covered by warranty.
If the black Teflon or black oxide coating is peeling off and there are no signs of scratching or abrasion, then the coating is defective. There is no way to repair the coating. Blade replacement is the only solution.
Sorry, but stolen or lost products are not covered under the warranty. Our warranty covers material and manufacturing defects.
The turnaround time for Gerber products within the UK varies depending on the product type, availability of replacements, repairs, delivery time, etc. A time can be given on a case-by-case basis and will be whenever possible. If you have a concern about the turnaround time of your Gerber product please contact Thomas Jacks Limited or ask your dealer.
Gerber products are tools and must be used with the utmost care. Please use all Gerber blades and equipment responsibly.
Sharpening Serrated Blades:
Use the Gerber Diamond Sharpener and lay the shaft of the sharpener in the serrations at a 15-degree angle and file down in each serration along the entire blade. When sharpening of a serrated blade is sufficient, a burr can be felt on the flat, or reverse side, of the knife blade. If no burr appears, then the angle was too small, and the work on the grooves must be repeated using a larger angle. You can feel the burr with your fingernail when successful. Finally, this burr should be removed by rubbing the back side of the knife on the Gerber Diamond Sharpener with a circular motion.
Use a lightweight gun or machine oil (like 3-in-1 oil). But before you do, make sure that it is clean of debris and moisture. Your Multi-Plier can be rinsed in clear tap water in order to remove most of the debris. If you still see dirt or grime in the grooves, handles, etc, use a q-tip or soft brush. Make sure to dry the tool completely then apply the oil. Stained areas can usually be buffed out using a polishing cloth or non-metallic scouring pad.
Maintaining your saw, pruner, spade, etc is important. You'll want to make sure that you clean it after each use. Rinse the gear in clear tap water, dry thoroughly and lightly oil the metal and pivot areas-using any light gun or machine oil or 3-in-1 oil.
Tightening Handles or Loose Screws:
The most common tool used for knife handle screws and clip screws is the T6 Torx Wrench. These tools are not provided by Gerber Blades but can be found in most hobby stores. We strongly recommend using a very small drop of Loctite thread locker when tightening or replacing any screw on a knife or tool. The Loctite will help hold the screws in the products steadfast and they won't work lose during use as easily.
NOTE: If in doubt about how to maintain your Gerber product please contact your nearest Gerber dealer or Thomas Jacks Limited for further advice.
GENERAL ISSUES & QUESTIONS
Refers to the edge of a blade and the angle of the cutting edge to the blades spine. There are many styles and are often used interchangeable with grinds.
A knife small enough to be concealed in a boot, generally considered a defensive knife.
The metal material at the blade end of knife handle. Today these are usually made of nickel silver or a mild stainless steel. In older, less expensive knives they were often made of iron or mild steel.
Any large, fixed blade knife with a blade ranging from 6 to 14 inches. The original namesake knife had a blade that was probably 9 inches long, with a sturdy guard projecting from both the top and bottom of the knife between blade and handle. Invented by Rezin Bowie and made famous by his brother, Jim, who died at the Alamo.
Is where the top of the blade slopes inward on the way to the tip. Since the sharp point is one of the goals of this format, the clip is often accompanied by a false edge. This format is often combined with a good-sized curving belly, for slicing ability. The combination of a controllable, sharp point and plenty of belly makes the clip point an excellent all-around format.
The top of the blade gradually slopes outwardly and downwards to the tip. A very common blade style.
Any knife that allows the blade to be folded into the handle. Pocketknives, Folding hunters, etc.
A blade with a sharp/ fine double or single edge.
The unique blade shape is ideal for opening the underside flesh of game during field dressing.
A knife used for skinning and butchering large and small game. Today it usually means a knife with a blade of 3 to 6 inches with a guard between the blade and the handle. But originally, it was a kitchen knife carried into the field. New styles appear annually.
Any knife that can be comfortably carried in a pocket. May have several blades. Almost always a folding knife.
Scallops in the edge that allow a sawing action; ideal for cutting things like seat-belts and plastic rope. Some blades are available in a semi-serrated edge allowing the wielder the option for fine-edge cutting or serrated-edge sawing.
The classic Japanese tanto shape has the point exactly inline with the spine of the blade, and has a graceful belly curve. Most tantos seen on the American cutlery market are the Americanized tanto format. Like the Japanese tanto, the Americanized tanto has a high-point in-line with the spine. A flat grind is applied to the point, leaving it very thick and massively strong.
The front edge meets the bottom edge at an obtuse angle, rather than curving to meet it as in the Japanese tanto. There is a separate grind applied to the bottom edge, often a hollow grind to leave this edge extremely sharp. Other tanto formats have become popular also, and modifications such as clipping the point or applying a chisel-grind are often seen.
A high-carbon, high-alloy, space age, stainless steel first used for knives by R. W. Loveless about 1972. At that time it was vacuum melted. Content: Carbon 1.05%, Manganese 0.5%, Chromium 14.0%, Molybdenum 0.4 - 0.55%.
A stainless spring steel often used in production knives. Very useful in tanto blades. Outstanding for axe heads. Content: Carbon 0.15 to 0.6%, Manganese 1.0%, Chromium 12-14%
An improved form of 420 that works well with high production tooling; commonly used by Gerber and other major brands. Content: Carbon 0.5-0.7%, Manganese 0.35-0.9%, Chromium 13.5%.
A high-carbon stainless steel used in most production knives and in some handmade knives. Works well through tooling. Content: Carbon 0.60 to 0.75%, Manganese 1.0%, Chromium 16.0-18.0%, Molybdenum 0.75%.
The most popular high-carbon stainless used by custom knifemakers for many years. First used by Gil Hibben about 1966.Content: Carbon 0.95 - 1.20%, Manganese 0.40%, Chromium 17.0%, Vanadium 0.50%, Molybdenum 0.50%.
A stainless steel widely used in high-end blades.
A stainless steel variant of 440A. Includes more vanadium, offering increased strength, wear resistance and toughness.
A non-magnetic metal with a high resistance to corrosion. Lightweight, yet strong.
A metal, typically aluminum, that has been coated with a protective or decorative layer of oxide, through a process of electrochemical conversion. The anodizing process affects the surface as well as the interior the metal. The anodized parts are quite durable, do not tarnish, resist abrasions, and maintain their cosmetic appearance for a long period of time.
A flat black, anti-reflective coating put on tactical knife blades. Black oxide can be applied on steel, copper, and most stainless steel.
Many of today's thermoplastic materials are improved by adding chopped glass fibers. Often as much as 40% of a product may be glass. Adds great strength.
A method for smoothing surfaces known to reduce glare and fingerprints on metal surfaces.
Metal is placed in a water-based solution containing emulsion and treated wih an electric current, resutling in a protective coating. Additional processes are also applied I.E: Heat & temperature treatment, etc.
A steel with .5 Carbon or more. The term high-carbon steel is often used to mean a non stainless steel; this is incorrect, however, because all stainless steel used in knifemaking is high carbon.
Any stainless steel used to make a knife blade must be high-carbon to make a decent knife. Any high carbon stainless steel will stain, though less than other steels.
A chromium stainless steel capable of heat treatment to a maximum hardness of 500 Brinell appox. It has a maximum corrosion-resistance only in its fully hardened condition and is magnetic.
A man-made material resembling rubber that can be molded into knife handles or handle parts to offer better gripping ability.
A ceramic coating which increases hardness and abrasion/ corrosion resistance.
A Tough, wear and corrosion resistant metal.
Two times stiffer than steel. Known for its toughness, making it ideal for cutting tools.
Tool steel with a very hard core, but with outer areas made of softer material that gives great strength. Harry Morseth began the use of this material in the U.S. about 1946. It had been used for centuries in Scandinavia and Japan.
There is also a patrol pack, which can be used separately or combined with the main ruck for added load carrying capability. MOLLE can be configured in several different variations to fit the load handling needs of the mission. A connecting device on the vest is designed so that the external frame of the main ruck attaches to the waist belt of the vest to transfer the load from the shoulders and back to the hips where it can be carried much easier with less fatigue.
Stands for Personal Flotation Device.
A strong synthetic resin used in molded products, such as knife handles, unbreakable windows and optical lenses.
A thermoplastic substance that is a synthetic polymer of propylene. It's used in making pipes, industrial fibers, and molded objects.
Any tool steel that will remain flexible when properly heat-treated.
A material that can be both hard and tough; widely used to armor jet fighters. About 1/3 lighter than steel. Very useful for knife parts, but will not hold an edge so is not useful as a blade.
A corrosion-resistant, silvery, metallic chemical element that occurs in rutile and ilmenite. Its strength and light weight make it useful in the manufacture of alloys for the aerospace industry.
A hard, lustrous gray metallic chemical element with a very high melting point. It's used in various high-temperature alloys, lamp filaments, and high-speed cutting tools.
A thermoplastic material used in molding handles for knives, generally containing 25 to 50% chopped fiberglass or Kevlarﾮ fiber or carbon fiber.
A liner-lock has a leaf cut out of the handle's liner. When the blade is fully open, the leaf springs open and blocks the back of the blade, preventing it from closing. Since the liner locks has no spring pushing against the blade, it has an incredibly smooth action. To unlock the knife you thumb the leaf out of the way, obviously using just one hand. The blade has a detent in it, and a small ball bearing embedded in the leaf drops into the detent when the blade is fully closed, keeping the knife from opening accidentally. This lock format is extremely strong when done correctly.
A folding knife that has a lock release on the back of the handle and spring tension against the blade. When the knife is fully open, a tooth at the end of the spring drops into a cutout in the blade, thus locking the blade safely in place. Pressure from a spring keeps the blade from accidentally opening. Pushing the release lifts the tooth out of the cutout, allowing the knife to close.
The framelock is a variant of the linerlock. Instead of using the liner, though, the frame functions as an actual spring. It is usually much more secure than a liner lock.
A knife or blade that requires no locking mechanism as it does not fold away and is permanently fixed in placed. These blades require sheaths.
A locking mechanism for Gerber multi-tools. Tools automatically lock when fully extended.
A lock with a spring-loaded bolt.
Similar to a liner-lock, but requires the movement of a small lever on the handle before the blade can be closed. Lever is located near thumb lever on the handle.
Prevents the involuntary movement of a blade via a sliding button mechanism.
The tang is the part of the knife where the blade stops and the handle starts. There are many different terms used to describe what kind of tang a knife has, because the strength and other characteristics of the knife depend on the tang format.
A full tang knife has a tang that goes the length of the handle at full width, and you can see the tang spine itself because the handle slabs are afixed to each side. This is the strongest tang format.
To save weight, the maker can taper the tang so it gets thinner as it goes back into the handle; this is called a tapered tang. If the tang disappears into the handle itself, it's called a hidden tang. If the tang thins out considerably once it goes into the handle, it's called a stick tang.